Bhutan – Kingdom of Rare Plants by Rosemary Legrand

Rosemary has a strong horticultural background, coming from a horticultural family and being a former nursery owner.  Her late father was a hybridist of azaleas and rhododendrons and she had the honour of presenting a collection of his Azaleas to the late Queen Elizabeth II.  Rosemary has travelled to many parts of the world and her knowledge of plants and skills as a photographer have enabled her to give informative and beautifully illustrated talks about her travels and the plants she has seen on them.

From April to May of 2007, Rosemary embarked on a botanical trekking tour of Bhutan. Her talk to us described her journey and was illustrated by beautiful photographs. Note that they journey did not include North east Bhutan as extra paperwork and visas are required to go there.

Bhutan is also called Druk Yul meaning “Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon”.  It is actually quite a small country (about the size of Switzerland) and is bordered by China in the north and India in the south.  Despite its size, there are some 5000 species of shrubs, trees and other types of plant. The country can be roughly divided into 3 – a lower more tropical area (nearer to the Indian border), the centre which is more temperate and the north which is more mountainous and favours alpine plants.

Rosemary pointed out that her journey was in 2007 – many things will have changed by now.

Rosemary provided a list of books about Bhutan and a list of plant nurseries selling some of the plants mentioned in her talk.

Notable points on the journey

• The journey started by flying into Delhi and then onto to Bagdogbra in the northern part of India where the party was met by their guides and a very basic coach!
• There is a strong contrast between India and Bhutan.  The former is very noisy and dusty, Bhutan is so different almost as soon as you cross the border.
• A very “interesting” road with 17 bends per kilometre.
• Mount Chomolhari (3810 m) – the most sacred mountain in the region.  The Bhutanese believe that gods live there and so climbing it is frowned upon.  The high altitude bleaches the prayer flags.  The soil on the higher passes is very gritty which, along with the altitude, suits alpine plants.
• Paro airport – the buildings are built in the traditional Bhutan style.  One of the most dangerous airports in the world to fly into.  Pilots have to have special training.  At the time it was the only airport available, but there would undoubtedly be more now.
• Tiger’s nest monastery near Paro.  Perched on and built into the sheer side of the cliff.
• Dochu La – a pass in the Bhutanese Himalayas. 108 special Chortens called “The Chortens of Victory”. Built to honour the Bhutanese soldiers killed during the 2003 battle against insurgents from Assam in India.
• Chendebji chorten – the place of eyes.  Parts of the external decoration looks like pairs of eyes.
• Visit to a monastery – able to watch and listen to the monks meditating.  Photos not taken out of respect.
• Bumthang valley – see below. At one point the trek had to cross a river using a felled tree as a bridge.  Came across a group of travelling musicians who were visiting hamlets to pray for rain and asking for donations. 2007 was unusually dry in Bhutan.
• Came across a monastery where they were replacing the huge timbers due to beetle damage.  All cut and shaped by hand.
• Towards the end of the journey – Thimphu – the capital with its markets, shops and archery going on. Takin preserve – a reserve for the Bhutan Takin – the national animal of Bhutan (an elk like creature).
• Dzong Simtokha – where the king was crowned.  The royal family is very popular.
• On the flight home out of Thimphu airport the plane managed to circle round Everest – the icing on the cake of the whole trip.

Plants and animals

• Tea plantations (Camellia sinensis) were to be seen in India.
• Dendrobium orchids
• Hoya
• Cobra Lilly – Arisaemia.
• Rhododendron dalhousiae – a tree dwelling epiphyte
• The cattle all have bells. They are a cross between domestic cattle and Yaks – it gives a sweeter temperament but still produces the rich buttery milk that the Bhutanese love.  Yaks are kept in the higher altitudes.
• Albizia chinensis – fast growing tree as cover for the tea plantations.
• Paris polyphylla – we can grow here
• R. campanulatum, R. arboreum (the 1^st tree Rhododendron brought to the UK),  R. lantanum (velvety under side of leaf protects from cold) – all in high alpine section of the journey.
• Meadows of Primula denticulata.
• R. cinnabarinum – not easy to grow in the UK.
• Primula sikkimensis in a valley that the trek passed through.  Despite the dry conditions, it was thriving because of the water at the bottom of the valley.
• R. Keysii, Acer campbellii, Osmunda claytoniana (likes it dry). Arisaema griffithii – flower shaped like a cobra.  Vaccinium retusum.
• Many different types of Curcuma (part of the ginger family), due to the warm climate.
• R. falconeri – huge yellow flowers.  In one place it carpeted an entire valley. It can grow on cliff edges with practically no soil.
• Langur monkeys.
• Coelogyne corymbosa – orchid.  R. edgeworthii – this was a highlight for Rosemary.  It has huge flowers with a sweet nutmeg fragrance.  The Bhutanese cut it for temple decoration.
• Aristolochia macrophylla – Dutchman’s pipe – all parts very toxic.
• There are tigers in Bhutan.  They are moving to higher regions.  The government is trying to create safe corridors to China so that the tigers can safely move around.
• Orchid – Calanthe tricarinata.  Euphorbia griffithii – we grow this easily in the UK but it originates from Bhutan.
• In the Bumthang valley – Paris violacea, Daphne bholua.  The bark of the latter as well as that of Edgeworthia chrysantha, is used to make paper.  Japanese banknote paper is made from Edgeworthia.  Daphne ludlowii (the only place in Bhutan to see it).  Meconopis paniculata. R. cinnabarinum, R. campylocarpum. Primula edgworthii, R.thomsonii, P. calderiana, P. hookeri. R. hodgsonii – rusty underside to leaves.  R. wightii. At the higher altitudes of the valley, the plants have smaller, scaly leaves to protect against the cold.  Rice paddies lower down in the valley.  Elaeagnus parvifolia, Osmunda cinnamomea.
• Suddenly in the Bumthang valley the trek encountered bamboo (Cham) country.  The ponies and Yaks eat it.  Here there were Trilliums, Roscoea triflorum, Arisaema nepenthoides, Euporbia stracheyi.
• R ciliatum.
• Black necked cranes on migration from Tibet.
• Meconopsis villosa.

Life on the trek – camping etc.

• Part of the journey was by coach and then later trekking and camping either in tents or “chalets”.  The accommodation was all different (not at all European!). The walkers gear and all the camp equipment was transported by ponies, taken care of by pony men.
• In some places after 9pm there was no electricity so it was a case of candles and stoves!
• The Bumthang valley was the main part of the trip – 6 days camping in the wilderness.  However, there were still 3 hot meals a day provided by the camp guides.  A different soup every night! Food brought in by pony no matter where the camp was.  Lots and lots of vegetables as the Bhutanese are largely vegetarian (although they will eat road kill!!), but they do cater for western tastes by providing meat and a full English cooked breakfast! The local stray dogs get to know which camps have westerners in as they can smell the sausages and hang around waiting for some. Each person got a bowl of hot water each morning to wash in – no showers of course. Rosemary said she became very adept at washing from head to toe in the right order to make use of the 1 bowl of water!  The tents were all set up and packed up by the camp guides.
  
  The highest campsite in the trek was 3680m.  They did walk higher than that one day (4039 m) but only the fittest people were allowed to do it because the ponies didn’t go that high and if you were taken ill, there would be no way to get you down. Dropped back down to 2621 m at the end of the 6 days.
  
  At the end of the Bumthang trek they were all sad to leave the camp crew and pony men as they had looked after the trekkers so well.  They had to go back to the beginning with all the ponies and kit!!

People, culture, religion

• The major religion is Buddhism. Prayer flags can be seen everywhere.
• A Chorten is a religious shrine.  You must walk round it clockwise.  Likewise, prayer wheels must be spun clockwise.
• In 2007 the infrastructure was being improved – Rosemary saw many examples of road construction projects. There was machinery but much work was done by the “National Workforce” – Bhutanese and Bangladeshi people, men, women and children working in large groups doing hard manual labour.
• The Bhutanese are very “green” – they are passionate about conservation and preserving the plants, animals and ecology of their country.
• Prior to the introduction of state education, boys went to the monasteries for education but had to stay on as monks.  Now they can buy out once they have completed their education.
• “La” means valley or pass.
• At the time of Rosemary’s visit, almost all Bhutanese people wore the national dress. For ladies this is called a Kira.  It is It is an ankle-length dress consisting of a rectangular piece of woven fabric. It is wrapped and folded around the body, pinned at both shoulders and bound at the waist with a long belt. The fold created at the front acts as a “handbag”.  It is usually worn with a wonju (long-sleeved blouse) inside and a short jacket outside.
  
  Male national dress is called a Gho. It is a knee-length robe tied with a handwoven belt, known as kera. Under the gho, men wear a tego, a white jacket with long, folded-back cuffs.
  
  Ceremonial boots for special occasions.
  
  
• The Dzongs are a huge part of the landscape and culture.  They are fortress like buildings and were indeed originally used for defence, but have become used now as monasteries and for administration.  Cupressus trees are sacred and always planted near a Dzong so that the foliage can be burnt in a sacred burner.  Each Dzong also has a sacred cockerel!
  
  The architecture and inside design is unique to the Dzongs.  There are superb intricate  carvings, gilding, brightly coloured murals and deep soffits.  The Bhutanese love bright colours.
• Dignitaries wear white prayer shawls.
• Some temples are very old – 7^th century.
• English is the foreign language taught in all schools and even quite small children were eager to speak to the trekkers. The schools sing the national anthem and say prayers every day. School resources in the countryside are basic – but that may well have changed now.
• The women and girls in the countryside all have the same haircut (it might be somewhat unfairly described by western eyes as “pudding basin”).
• Archery is the national sport.
• Women spin using a “spinning top” type of spinner.  They do it as they walk along.  Weaving is a very important cottage industry.
• Much hydroelectric power but even so, some more remote places still rely on oil lamps and grinding flour by hand.
• Fruit is a major export to India as is hydroelectric power.  India is seen as a protector.
• On leaving the Bumthang valley the trek came across a cottage hospital – just 1 doctor and 1 nurse.
• Bamboo strips are left on the road so vehicles crush them then they can be used to make hurdles.
• The local shops were very small but sell everything. 
• The Bhutanese believe in the concept of “gross national happiness” and everything they do is centred round this.
• Even in 2007, the trip guides did have mobile phones.  However the country’s rulers want technology to be introduced slowly so as not to spoil the country.
• In 2007, the average life expectancy in Bhutan was 52 for men and 50 for women.  Despite the healthy vegetarian diet, they do love “Butter Tea” made from the incredibly rich Yak milk.
• NURSERIES THAT SUPPLY SOME OF THE PLANTS MENTIONED IN MY TALK
• Koirin Azalea Centre          Millais Nurseries Cross Roads Nursery Rhododendrons and Azaleas,
• Woodlands                               Crosswater Farm,
• Wmborne,                                Crosswater Lane,
• Dorset BH21 8LN                       Churt, Farnham,
• Surrey
• Tel 01202 824629                                          GUIO 2JN
• Website: www.azaleacentre.co.uk
• Email: enquiries@azaleacentre.co.uk     Tel: 01252 792698
• Email: sales@rhododendrons.co.uk
• Website: www.rhododendrons.co.uk
• Crug Farm Plants
• Griffith’s Crossing
• Caernarfon,
• Gwynedd
• LL55 ITU
• Tel: 01248 670232
• Website: www.cruq-farm.co.uk
• Long Acre Plants
• Charlton Musgrove
• Somerset BA9 8EX
• Tel/Fax: 01963 32802
• Email: info@lonqacreplants.co.uk
• Website. www.longacreplants.co.uk
• Phoenix Perennial Plants
• Paice Lane
• Medstead
• Alton
• Hampshire
• GU34 5PR
• BOOKS ON BHUTAN
• Lonely Planet
• ISBN 1-86450-145-6
• ‘Bhutan’ by Francoise Pommaret
• Timeless Books ISBN 962-217-702-6
• ‘A Portrait of Bhutan’ by Ashi Dorj Wangmo Wangchuck. Queen of Bhutan
• ISBN 13: 978-0-67099-901-9
• ISBN 10: 0-67099-901-6
• Flowers of the Himalaya
• Oleg Polunin and Adam Stainton
• Oxford University Press
• Bhutan — Land of the Thunder Dragon Freda Ferne ISBN 978-0-9560296-0-7